There is an old Japanese saying, “He who never climbs Mount Fuji is a fool, and he who climbs twice is twice the fool”.
A few years back I managed to get myself outside Tokyo and headed to the countryside intent on climbing Mt. Fuji, the tallest and most famous mountain in Japan. Accompanied by a few mates we set out to take on Japan’s greatest mountain.
Mount Fuji, Japan (image credit: webshots)
We planned a night-time ascent, starting the journey at around 9.00pm from the Fifth Station with a goal to get to the top in time to watch the sun rise, which was said to be around 4.53am. The summit of Mount Fuji has an elevation of 3,776 metres above sea-level.
Mount Fuji (image credit: wikipedia)
At first, the climb was quite pleasant. It was basically just walking uphill on a shallow incline. But after the 6th station, it got rough and quickly turned from a walk to a hike to a climb. At many points, we literally had to use all four limbs to pull ourselves up craggy rocks in the dark.
All traces of vegetation had disappeared early. The top part of Fuji is barren rock, with endless switchbacks leading upwards. We continued in this manner into the night. Although the mountain itself was not very pretty, we had a very inspiring view of the stars. We could also see some lights of the cities below.
The terrain of Mount Fuji
The terrain of Mount Fuji
At around 10.30pm it started to rain. It was rainy, windy and cold. We had all invested in a plastic poncho at the base of Mount Fuji, but with the weather conditions, the poncho was rendered useless. By 1.00am we were becoming quite exhausted, wet and cold. Sitting on a rock shivering we decided to pay Y5,000 for a brief stop in a hut where we could lie on a futon by a small wood fire.
Struggling to leave the comforts of the hut we finally motivated ourselves to re-embark on the journey at around 3.20am. However, we were still 3 hours from the top which meant that we were behind schedule to make it for the sunrise. We started to really make tracks up the mountain however due to the altitude we were also contending with shortness of breath.
Fuji Sunrise
Fuji Sunrise
Fuji Sunrise
When it started to become light, we had gained a renewed energy and made some good time up the mountain. By the time the sun started to rise, we were right near the top.
The sunrise was a spectacular sight. The weather was cloudy, but we were above the clouds. It was like looking at the tops of clouds from an airplane. As the sun rose, the carpet of clouds lit up in orange, red, and yellow, and at about 5.00am, the sun burst brilliantly above the cloud cover to illuminate the entire sky.
On top of Mount Fuji there are vending machines, street stalls and even a public telephone. I managed to call a couple of people in Australia. The oxygen on the top was sparse and on occasions I felt dizzy. Many of the Japanese climbers overcame the lack of oxygen by puffing on a cigarette.
Fuji Landscape
Fuji Crater
Fuji Shrine
Fuji Shrine
Tōkyō Tower
The Kyoto Protocol
Tsūtenkaku
Tōkyō Disney Resort
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Thanks for sharing your story and photos with us, along with the valuable lessons!
So, do you think you’ll ever attempt to be “twice a fool”?
hi supreme nothing, thanks for your comment.
i definitely intend on becoming twice the fool. although the climb is extremely arduous it is very rewarding. i can’t wait to do it again.
Nice presentation! Great shots!
I have to go up there one day too!
thanks mihai. i highly recommend it. when you reach the top, not only do you feel like you have achieved something but it is also a spectacular view!
MOUNT FUJI—Just say no!
Hi! Just wondering whether you had any expertise in climbing. I really want to convince my boyfriend that we should climb Mt Fuji but I think he is hesitant since we are not experience hikers or climbers. I don’t want to do a tour as this is one of those life changing moments that I’d like to say I actually experienced. Can you shed some light on the issue? Thanks!
Hi Cat, I had no experience in climbing and I don’t think that you need any. Maybe just a bit of fitness training (which I neglected/regretted).
The trail is very clearly marked and you are climbing with hundreds and hundreds of other climbers making it difficult to get lost. It is not easy, but no special skills are required. I believe that the oldest person to climb Fuji is 103 years old.
One of the guys in my party was drinking in Roppongi until 8am on the morning of the climb. He really struggled for the last few hours but he still made it to the top, hangover and all.
When is the best time to go? Has the window closed for this year? I haven’t climed Fuji yet, but I’m aiming to be a fool and I’m two climbs behind my goal!
http://fukuokadreaming.wordpress.com
Hi crew, I believe that the ‘official’ climbing season is July to August. So, if you are an amateur like me, I think that you missed it for this year. If your a pro, you may have a window of a couple of weeks of climbing left before the weather really closes it down.
Here is some info on the climbing season: http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6901.html
Hey Lee, nice post! I’m a little surprised though. Just recently some other Japanese people were discussing climbing mount Fuji and staying in huts and whatnot due to the challenge it presented, and it sounds like you have a rough time too!
When I climbed it during the night, I did it on a complete whim with nothing more than a thin plastic coat that I bought last minute at a shop in the area and the hiking trainers I wear as normal footwear. I guess I was lucky! Apart from being realy cold at the top (I wore two shirts and my thin rain jacket), I really didn’t find it tough at all. Sure, I was tired, especially after being up climbing all night and then jogging back down the mountain, but it was nothing compared to the hiking I’ve done in the UK during my Duke of Edinburgh’s award.
I probably sound like a stuck up git :p haha. But really, I am honestly just surprised people find it hard after the stroll I had. I guess fortune favoured me that day. I should try it again and see if I become a fool
Hi Mike, thanks for your comment. I agree, it’s no Everest, so can understand your view that it is a ’stroll’. In fact, I was pleasantly surprised that it wasn’t as hard as what I had expected to be.
In saying that though, there are two things:
- A stroll is one thing but a stroll up a craggy hill for 8 hours non-stop at a time when your body thinks it should be sleeping is another. You just need to be mentally prepared, I guess.
- Mid-way through my climb we were faced with strong winds and rain. We only had the last minute ponchos, just like you. After an hour of rain, we were soaking wet and cold. Sitting around a fire in an over-priced, dirty mountain hut was a luxury.
I do however look forward to taking Fuji on again someday and becoming twice the fool!